Infrared spectroscopic studies of sodium dodecyl sulphate permeation and interaction with stratum corneum lipids in skin

P. Saad, C. R. Flach, R. M. Walters, R. Mendelsohn

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

48 Scopus citations

Abstract

The barrier function of skin is primarily provided by the lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which has been shown in previous infrared (IR) and related studies to consist predominantly of ordered lipids packed in orthorhombic and hexagonal domains. In the current work, we investigate the effects of the anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS), on SC lipid packing and phase behaviour, using FT-IR spectroscopy. The use of acyl chain perdeuterated SDS allows unequivocal spectroscopic detection of both endogenous lipid and exogenous material in intact tissue. IR spectra were acquired as a function of temperature from isolated human SC exposed to SDS for various incubation periods at 34°C. SDS is found to enter the SC and is observed to be in a more ordered state in the SC than in solution, indicating that the SDS interacts with the ordered SC lipids. The results reveal that SDS reduces the amount of orthorhombic phase in the SC and increases the amount of hexagonally packed lipid at physiologically relevant temperatures. In addition, a small decrease in the lipid T m (acyl chain melting temperature) is observed. Furthermore, these SDS-induced changes were found to be strongly dependent on the time of exposure.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)36-43
Number of pages8
JournalInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science
Volume34
Issue number1
DOIs
StatePublished - Feb 2012

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Drug Discovery
  • Chemistry (miscellaneous)
  • Aging
  • Dermatology
  • Colloid and Surface Chemistry
  • Pharmaceutical Science

Keywords

  • infrared spectroscopy
  • lipid packing
  • lipid phase behaviour
  • stratum corneum
  • surfactant

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